Eaparts Heater Delete Kit installation
Tools and parts required:
Tools: Big screwdriver or 3/8 extension
½” Socket set
Parts: EAPARTS Heater delete kit
Sealant And/or Teflon tape
In this article we are going to give you the step by step of installing one of our heater delete kits for the family of RB twin-cam engines.
First, to clear things up, a common solution thrown around the internet is to just block the inlet and outlet for the heater. But this concept lacks the basic fundamentals of how the heater circuit should run and creates other problems. For example, there is no coolant flow to the rear of the engine which causes the water to boil in the rear of the block. Also, there’s no flow over the rear of the thermostat which may cause the water pump to cavitate whilst trying to suck water through the valve on the thermostat.
Running the heater delete kit (sometimes called Heater Bypass Kit) is the correct way to remove the heater.
Removing the original heater outlet can be done with the engine in and water pump on.
Best to remove intake manifold. Grab a hammer. And tap the outlet up and down to break the seal. Once done Grab a screwdriver or 3/8 extension insert into the outlet and pry up and down whilst pulling to the rear of the engine to remove.
Once removed apply some sealant to the replacement fitting on the sides to be pressed into block.
Align the AN6 fitting in the correct orientation of your preference. We then grab a 7/8 socket to slide over the AN10 fitting.
We do not supply an installation tool to enable us to keep the prices down. Grab an extension and fit to the socket and carefully tap in with a hammer until fitting bottoms out on the block.
Moving on to the rear fitting the easiest way we have found is to cut off the outlets on the fitting Enough to get a 27mm socket onto it then remove. Prepare your rare AN10 heater, outlet by applying Teflon tape, or thread sealant of your preference.
Once installed grab the supplied braided line and thread and place crank the AN fittings up with AN wrenches if you do not have these a regular Crescent We’ll work Fine back tape up the jaws to try and avoid scratching the fittings. Complete..
As a side note, there is no need for Teflon tape to be used on the AN fittings as they seal on the taper. Alternatively, thread locker can be used to avoid the fittings potentially loosening over time which is not common if fitted correctly. If you are running coolant on your turbo this is what the AN6 port is for. If you are not and have no use for the port an AN6 blanking cap can be used to plug the port.
If you require your heater, We haven’t forgotten about you guys! We also sell an AN braided heater conversion kit which retains the heater but converts the complete circuit to AN10 and braided hose.
All fittings are included in this heater delete kit (sometimes called a heater bypass kit) and will set you back around $450 NZD.